Plumeria, frangipani
One of the best things about moving back to California, particularly in having the good fortune to live by the beach, is the opportunity to finally grow plumeria. Depending on where you live, whether it's shelter from too much cold, feeding on a particular schedule, pruning and repotting after a dormant season, or the tricky task of propagation, caring for plumeria can be a part-time job. This is one of those plants that asks you to know your USDA Plant Hardiness Zone and keep a look-out for frost. This guide is as much a test of my own skills as it attempts to be a guide for the average plant enthusiast. I took a cutting from a
Spring
In Spring, about a month after the last frost and when things start to warm up, place your plumeria in your favorite spot. Look for damage, rot at the tips or on the stems should be cut back with clean cutters (sterilizing between cuts to avoid spreading disease to new cuts). If your plant has outgrown its container, spring is a good time to transplant to a larger one or prune the roots and top dress with fresh soil.
My one-year-old plumeria cutting, zone 10a, in early March, just before first feeding.
Feeding
Plumeria will bloom if it gets the right amount of sunlight, water, and, most importantly, if its fed. Plumeria prefers relatively low nitrogen (the first number, N) and high phosphorous (the middle number, P) content fertilizer such as JR Peters Blossom Booster* or Miracle Grow's Bloom Booster Flower Food.* Feed according to the label directions every other week or at least once a month during the growing season, approximately April through August depending on your zone. Another element beneficial to plumeria is magnesium. Feeding one teaspoon of Epsom salt per gallon of water when feeding or watering will promotes growth and health.
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August: been battling mites, but we're branching.
